Our BJ42 LX rebuild

[Theo Marx]

Can still see those pedals..

Where ?

[Theo Marx]

Update: In preparation for removing the tub(after most of the patchwork is finished) I had to remove the last bit of plumbing that was attached to the tub..



























As soon as the last major patchwork is done, I will remove the tub from the chassis  

Then I also stripped the Ambi doors























Next up the front doors

[Theo Marx]

Theo take that alarm clock out of the workshop, people might think you sleep with your 40 rather than in your own bed :twisted:

Lately it has been feeling like it....



Old floor and seem cut out







New floor piece shaped and fitted all the way into the sill.







new lip fitted above the floor piece



and drilling the new spotwelds ala OEM







From the bottom
 







Rough grinded, etched cleaned & temporarily painted with NS4 untill the Rustbullet Silver Label arrives...







Once again the whole seam is opened and a new lip made to replace the old. NO SHORT-CUTS !



















New lip to replace the old which was covered with Rust Bullet on the inside before being welded in, just like all the other closed areas..







Seams that are too good to be cut out are drilled open and painted with Rust Bullet on the inside before being closed up and spotwelded again.









Rear ambi door











Driver's door: New bottom piece already Rust Bulleted and welded in.







Hardtop

[Theo Marx]

Another update 











Self etching metal cleaner prior to the temporary NS4



New lips on inside...



From the other side







Also stripped the WS which is in perfect condition - probably from all the Tectyle ?







Only got 1 or 2 spots on the 2 hardtop panels to go and then all the patchwork will be done !

[Theo Marx]

Time for an update: Over the weekend we finished the last of the patchwork on the hardtop panels











 Getting ready to test-fit all the doors etc before fine grinding, dressing etc can begin...

[Theo Marx]

Then last night we moved onto the Bib. Like the others' my bib's bottom was also shot(a definate weak point in the 40 series). I thought about just buying a replacement bib but after feeling somewhat confident from our recent fabrication we decided to give it a go ourselves.



Both the inner and outside pieces needed to be replaced..



We cut,  bent and shaped the new outside piece after lots and lots of calculations...





and after tacking, welded it in place.



All grinded down..







Although the inner piece has been shaped we did not weld it in as I needed to Rust Bullet the areas that would not be exposed to normal paint, once welded up and we wanted to test-fit the new bottom with the fenders etc first(in case we need to make alterations) before final welding and drilling etc

[Theo Marx]

So it was time to see if the "new" bib would fit properly.In order to do so I had to refit both fenders and side panels.





The culprit..





Is this a perfect fit or what ? Even the angles of the swivel hinge was good !



That meant we could weld in the inner part that acts as reinforcement



With our spirits up, we decided to check on how some of the other parts that we had butchered, lines up..





So far everything is perfect ! Tomorrow night we will try and do the same with the ambi doors.

[Theo Marx]

After finally finishing the last of the welding(on the outside) and the test fitting it was time to remove the tub and face whatever she was hiding underneath, so today the tub finally came off !



From the beginning I was praying/hoping that rustwise, she would be better underneath than on the outside and ontop as it seemed that the PO had sprayed her with some rubberising underneath. Most thought I was nuts and looked sceptical....



What a pleasant surprise it was to find that what looked like rust is actually very fine dust...



Bar a small spot at the left tub mount the sill is very good.



It even still had the OEM stickers covering the factory holes





If it wasn't for the rain preventing me form painting the Rust Bullet on the few patches we need to weld, we could have finished all the outstanding welding.   When some of the helpers found other entertainment we took it as a sign and called it a day early...

[Theo Marx]

Time for an update: In prep for engine and box removal we removed the tierods , shocks and last of the brake hardlines. The help arrived early enough for the rugby and cladded in traditional war-dress nogal, we lost and then I got my own revenge by putting him to work!  :twisted:







Thanks mate ! :thumright:

Then today I got a huge pressie !! 









These were custom made for an 80 series but we have already worked out how to fit them in the 40. Watch this space...  8-)

Thanks JB ! You are the best !   :salut:

Now I just need to find the 2 outside seatbelts etc

[Theo Marx]

Got a little done ..

[Theo Marx]

In preparation for pulling the motor and boxes I have been stripping some more stuff ... 



















The intake side I may just leave "intact", as far as possible

[Theo Marx]

Due to the location of the P/S pump my engine only had 1 engine hoist bracket and therefore I had to fabricate 2 longer ones from some big angle iron



With them installed and a borrowed hoist from JB it was smooth sailing 8-)



inspite of the size and weight of the combo









With our spirits up and our curiosity getting the better of us we decided to pull the rear shafts in order to see what the 3rd member's condition was like in our notso expert opinions. :hillbilly:









There is some definate backlash that JB will have to set but the rest seems very good actually 8-)  Oh did I mention that when I dropped the G/box and T/Case at  JB, he declared the clutch and pressure plate as brand new 

[Theo Marx]

Some visuals of JB's work: The 40's have a known ailment in that the seal on the output shaft is known to start leaking.The oil from the Tcase then starts to leak into the Gbox and you end up with an empty Tcase and an overfilled Gbox(and a mouth full of gear oil when you unsuspectingly check the Gbox oil level  :oops: ). This problem is so common that in Aus and Us they even have the socalled "lazy man's cure" for it if you want to avoid pulling the boxes.

My gearbox and tc was pretty wet from the leak and so I dropped my boxes at JB. When I drained them I found some metal filings and therefore feared the worst.The news was better than I could ever have hoped for... 8-)





In order to replace the offending seal you have to remove the rear nut on the output shaft seen here.This nut had to be removed with the aid of some heat- a sign that this box and tc has never worked hard before.





The offending seal: Clearly not well fitted if you look at the folded  "lip" ....





Usually the rear nut comes loose from hard work /wear and then the gear will damage the output shaft, leaving it looking like this



Fortunately mine still looks like this



Thanks again JB

[Theo Marx]

Here you go JT



 

[Theo Marx]

Finished tapping all the required threads that were filled with galv 









Now it is on to prep and paint, as I don't like the Heep look